Which Fluke Multimeter Should I Buy? A Field-Tech’s Guide That Also Covers ifm Sensors

The Short Answer? It Depends on What You’re Actually Fixing

I get asked "which Fluke multimeter should I buy" almost every week. The honest answer is: there isn't one. There are three or four different right answers depending on what your day actually looks like.

I coordinate emergency maintenance calls for a small automation company. Over the past two years, I’ve triaged more than 200 rush calls—dead sensors, false flow readings, motors that trip at the exact same time every shift. I’ve learned that the best tool isn’t the most expensive one. It’s the one that gets you to the root cause before production loss turns into a penalty clause.

So before you buy anything, run through this quickly:

• If you troubleshoot electrical circuits often, you need a reliable multimeter.
• If you chase machine faults and suspect sensors, keep a known-good ifm IFS240 inductive sensor in your spare-parts box.
• If you’re measuring motor current without opening circuits, a 373 clamp meter might serve you better than a bench-style meter.
• If you already have a meter, the most underrated upgrade is a multimeter case.

(Note: I’m not an electrical engineer, so I’m not going to discuss harmonic studies or power quality analysis. I’ll stick to what I actually use in the field.)

Scenario 1: You’re a Plant Electrician or Maintenance Tech — Get a Fluke 117 or an 87V

"Which Fluke multimeter should I buy" is usually asked by someone who wants one meter to do everything. If that’s you, I’d steer you toward the Fluke 117 or the Fluke 87V. The 117 is a great first meter: it has low impedance mode to stop ghost voltages, plus non-contact voltage detection. The 87V is the one I carry for almost all general troubleshooting.

Why the 87V? Because in my world, time is money. The 87V handles variable frequency drives better than most meters, and its resistance and continuity ranges are stable when you’re poking around control panels.

But honestly, you may not need the 87V right away. If the meter is only going to live in a drawer for weekend projects, a simpler Fluke will do.

Scenario 2: You’re Working on Machines and Sensors — Keep an ifm IFS240 Inductive Sensor in Mind

Here’s where the conversation changes. A multimeter won’t tell you why a machine stopped if the root cause is a sensor that sees nothing. In my experience, more than half of ‘no signal’ calls are actually sensor mounting, target distance, or cable damage—not the PLC input.

The ifm IFS240 inductive sensor is a convenient reference point. It’s a common industrial proximity sensor you’ll find on conveyor lines, packing machines, and material handling systems. When I’m triaging a rush job, I grab the IFS240 when I need a known-good sensor to swap in and test the circuit.

Here’s the practical tip: if the sensor is dead, don’t automatically replace it. Check the distance. Check the cable. Check the target material. In my first year, I made the classic rookie mistake: replaced a perfectly good ifm IFS240, then discovered a broken wire in a drag chain. Cost me an hour and an unnecessary part.

The 5-minute check you do before replacing a sensor is the cheapest insurance you’ll ever buy. The same logic applies to your meter and your case.

Scenario 3: You Need Current Measurements Without Breaking the Circuit — Fluke 373 Clamp Meter

If you spend your day measuring motor current, heating elements, or panel feeders, stop asking "which Fluke multimeter should I buy" and look at the Fluke 373 clamp meter. It measures AC/DC current up to 600 A in a compact body. More importantly, it doesn’t make you cut wires or remove terminations. You clamp the jaw around the conductor and you’re done.

I like the 373 for fast line checks. It’s not the meter I would use for low-level millivolt sensor signals—that’s the 87V’s job. But for a quick “is this pump drawing normal current?” question, the 373 is faster and safer.

And yes, a clamp meter still needs a case. I’ve seen a technician lose a good meter because it slid off a panel and hit concrete. A multimeter case is not an accessory; it’s protection for a precision tool.

Scenario 4: You Already Have a Meter — Buy a Multimeter Case First

This is the one piece of advice that goes against the “buy the best meter” instinct. If you already own a decent Fluke and you don’t have a proper case or holster, buy that first. The tool that gets dropped, knocked off a step, or soaked in coolant becomes a $500 paperweight.

In March 2024, I had a rush order for a plant that lost a sensor on a gas line. We arrived to find the actual issue: the ifm gas flow meter mounted near the compressor was working, but a manual ball valve upstream was half closed. The flow meter caught it; the client’s first instinct was to replace the whole instrument. The fix was opening a valve. That was a 5-minute correction that would have become a $6,000 instrument replacement if someone skipped the diagnostic step.

That’s the prevention-over-cure mindset. Put a padded case around your meter. Keep a known-good ifm IFS240 in your spare-parts kit. Know how your ifm gas flow meter behaves under normal conditions. Do this before the emergency, and the emergency gets smaller.

Then Again: When the ifm Gas Flow Meter Is the Real Answer

Wait—let me separate another scenario. Sometimes a sensor really is the problem. I’m not saying “never replace anything.” The IFS240 is a workhorse, but every sensor has a life. And for gas or compressed air, you need more than a pressure gauge.

An ifm gas flow meter gives you a live reading of flow rate, which is the fastest way to see things like:

• A blocked filter
• A leaking line fed by a machine gas train
• A regulator that’s creeping
• A valve that isn’t fully opening

If you’re maintaining a gas-fired process, I’d argue the flow meter is as important as the multimeter in your bag. But it’s a different tool for a different question.

How to Decide: A Simple Field Checklist

So, which Fluke multimeter should I buy? Run these three questions. Answer honestly.

1. What is the most common signal you measure?
   If you measure voltage and resistance on control circuits, get a Fluke 87V or 117. If you measure current on motor feeders, get a Fluke 373 clamp meter. If you measure sensor outputs, make sure the meter has good millivolt resolution—the 87V does.
2. Where do you work?
   If you’re in a panel shop, a bench-style meter might be fine. If you’re on your knees under a conveyor, use a compact meter with a good holster.
3. What is the cost of being wrong?
   A $4,000 control card costs more than a $400 meter. When a wrong reading means swapping a $500+ part, buy a meter you trust and a case that protects it.

And my last point, which I wish someone had told me earlier: your multimeter is only as useful as your diagnostic procedure. The ifm IFS240 inductive sensor, the ifm gas flow meter, the multimeter case, and the 373 clamp meter all work together. The meter tells you whether the signal is there. The sensor reference tells you what “there” should look like. The case keeps the tool alive until the next call.

As of early 2025, Fluke’s catalog is huge and ifm keeps expanding its sensor range. Verify current specs and prices before you order—models change faster than you’d think. But the process won’t change: check first, buy what fits your actual day, and protect the tools that make your fixes possible.

Bottom line: “Which Fluke multimeter should I buy” is the wrong first question. The right first question is: “What am I trying to do after I pull the trigger?” Then pick the tool, the sensor, and the case that match that answer.